Kake's Rainbow Hemp Jumper - Sleeves
See also Kake's Rainbow Hemp Jumper - that page was getting a bit long so here's a separate one for the sleeves part of the pattern. Copyright on this pattern as described on that page.
Making up the body
Join the shoulder seams. I used a 1.25mm crochet hook to slip-stitch them together with wrong sides facing, using the leftover tails of yarn from changing colours so that the yarn I was using to do the joining was always the same colour as the fabric I was joining.
Join the side seams. I used the three-needle bind-off. I'd considered using Kitchener stitch but with 90 stitches to join it would have been a bit rough on the yarn.
You should have 75 stitches on a holder (from the front) and 75 on a provisional cast-on (from the back). With right side of garment facing, and starting at the underarm, put these stitches onto a circular needle. (150 stitches)
(The next bit might make more sense if you first read about Medrith Glover's strip-joining technique over in modular knitting.)
Row 1: With wrong side of garment facing, and yarn colour B, pick up and P 14 stitches from the underarm selvedge beginning at the border between the colour A stripe and the colour B stripe. (Place marker if required.) Continue purling onto the stitches on the circular needle. When end is reached, pick up and P 14 stitches from the other underarm selvedge, ending at the border between colours as before. Turn and K back 14 stitches so you're back on the main stitches again. (Place marker if required.)
- Row 2: K to last main stitch but 1 (stitch before marker). K2tog using the last main stitch and the next stitch picked up from selvedge. Turn.
- Row 3: P to last main stitch but 1. P2tog using the last main stitch and the next selvedge stitch. Turn.
- Rows 4-15: Repeat rows 2 and 3 six more times.
- Row 16: K1, K2togtbl, K to last main stitch but 4, K2tog, K1, K2tog using the last main stitch and the next selvedge stitch. Turn.
- Row 17: As row 3.
- Row 18: As row 2.
- Row 19: As row 3.
- Rows 20-27: Repeat rows 16-19 twice more, and then rows 2 and 3 once, ie until all picked-up selvedge stitches are used, but do not turn at the end of the last row. (150-6=144 stitches)
Change yarn to colour A. Pick up 32 stitches purlwise along the remainder of the underarm selvedge, placing a marker if required after the 16th stitch. You should now be back at the start of the last row, having completed a circle.
Note: you are still working back and forth at this point. The marker placed in the centre of the underarm selvedge stitches shows where the start/end of your rows are.
- Row 1: P to last-but-one main stitch, P2tog using the last main stitch and the first selvedge stitch. Turn.
- Row 2: K to last-but-one main stitch, K2tog using the last main stitch and the first selvedge stitch. Turn.
- Row 3: As row 1.
- Row 4: K1, K2togtbl, K to last main stitch but 3. K2tog, SSK using the last main stitch and the next selvedge stitch. Turn.
- Rows 5-16: Repeat rows 1-4 three more times.
- Row 17: As row 1.
- Row 18: As row 4.
- Rows 19-32: Repeat rows 17-18 seven more times, ie until all picked-up selvedge stitches are used. (144-(8+16)=120 stitches)
You now begin working circularly. You should have the right side facing after turning at the end of row 32.
- Rows 33-54: Work circularly in stockinette. You can either use the magic loop technique on your circular, or switch to double-pointed needles.
Change yarn to colour F.
- Rows 1-54: Continue to work circularly in stockinette but decrease one stitch at the beginning and end of every 4th row.
Change yarn to colour E.
- Rows 1-28: Continue working in stockinette and decreasing one stitch at the beginning and end of every 4th row.
- Rows 29-54: Work circularly in stocking stitch without decreasing.