London.crafts wiki - Differences between Version 24 and Version 23 of Kake's Rainbow Hemp Jumper

Version 24 Version 23
== Line 173 == == Line 173 ==
* <b>Rows 27-35:</b> As rows 1-9
* <b>Row 36:</b> SRB, P2, K82, inc 1, K1, inc 1, K to last 5st, ERB
* <b>Rows 37-39:</b> As rows 1-3

* <b>Rows 27-34:</b> As rows 1-8


Yarn bought from The House of Hemp, at the 2003 Knitting and Stitching Show. Each skein is 100g and cost £7. It is 2-ply and quite thin. I will probably use needles somewhere around 3mm.

I am planning to knit this sideways in stocking stitch so I can have nice wide vertical stripes. I will have to do a bit of maths to make sure that the colour joins work smoothly:

  • on each shoulder seam
  • at the side seam where I start and finish knitting
  • where I join the sleeves to the body (this is the least important one)

A V-neck would be nice but possibly impractical for sideways knitting.

Swatch

Knitted on 2mm needles. Before washing, 24 stitches and 48 rows per 10cm square. After machine-washing and drying flat, 32 stitches and 48 rows per 10cm square. I'm going to assume a gauge of 30 stitches and 48 rows, to allow for a little stretching with wear (remember that the rows are the horizontal direction and the stitches the vertical, since this is knitted sideways). I think I may have counted the rows a bit wrong though (they weren't very well defined) since while knitting the back and actually counting the rows I'm getting more like 54 rows per 10cm.

Bust shaping

Normally this would be done with short rows, but since we're going sideways it has to be paired increases and decreases instead. I'd like to gain about 5cm of ease over 10cm of width, ie gain 8 pairs of stitches over 54 rows. That's about one pair of increases every 6 rows.


The pattern

Creative Commons License
This knitting pattern is copyright 2004 Kate L Pugh and is licensed under a Creative Commons License.

Use 2mm needles. The yarn is 2-ply hemp yarn in 6 colours: A, B, C, D, E, F. Size: one size fits Kake.

Back

Use a provisional cast on to avoid seams. Throughout these directions, wrap the next stitch after a short row.

The back is worked left to right. The selvedges are worked with a chain selvedge for neatness of finished edges and ease of seaming, plus a 4-stitch moss stitch border to avoid rolling. An additional 2-stitch-wide strip of reverse stocking stitch is added at the hem between the main part and the moss stitch border, to further inhibit rolling.

Special abbreviations:

  • SRB: Start of row border: S1P, P1, K1, P1, K1
  • ERB: End of row border: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

Cast on 90 stitches in colour A. This strip uses short rows to form the waist shaping.

  • Row 1: SRB, P to last 7 st, K2, ERB
  • Rows 1a, b, c, d: SRB, P2, K2, turn; P2, K2, ERB, turn; SRB, P2, K6, turn; P6, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 2: SRB, P2, K to last 5 st, ERB
  • Rows 2a, b, c, d: SRB, P20, turn; K20, ERB, turn; SRB, P22, turn, K22, ERB, turn
  • Row 3: as row 1
  • Rows 3a, b: SRB, P2, K10, turn; P10, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 4: as row 2
  • Rows 4a, b: SRB, P24, turn; K24, ERB, turn
  • Row 5: as row 1
  • Rows 5a, b, c, d: SRB, P2, K14, turn; P14, K2, ERB, turn; SRB, P2, K18, turn; P18, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 6: as row 2
  • Rows 6a, b, c, d: SRB, P26, turn; K26, ERB, turn; SRB, P28, turn; K28, ERB, turn
  • Row 7: as row 1
  • Rows 7a, b: SRB, P2, K22, turn; P22, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 8: as row 2
  • Rows 8a, b: SRB, P30, turn; K30, ERB, turn
  • Row 9: as row 1
  • Rows 9a, b, c, d: SRB, P2, K26, turn; P26, K2, ERB, turn; SRB, K32, turn; P32, ERB, turn
  • Row 10: as row 2
  • Rows 10a, b, c, d: SRB, P32, turn; K32, ERB, turn; SRB, P34, turn; K34, ERB, turn
  • Row 11: as row 1
  • Rows 11a, b: SRB, P2, K34, turn; P34, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 12: as row 2
  • Rows 12a, b: SRB, P36, turn; K36, ERB, turn
  • Row 13: as row 1
  • Row 14: as row 2

Change yarn to colour B. This strip takes care of the armhole shaping and also begins the hem shaping. Use invisible increases.

  • Row 1: SRB, P to last 7 st, K2, ERB
  • Row 2: SRB, P2, K to last 5 st, ERB
  • Rows 3-26: Repeat the preceding two rows, increasing one stitch at the hem end every three rows (start of the row on K rows, end of the row on P rows) beginning the increases on row 3. Work the increases on the body side of the reverse stocking stitch strip.
  • Cast on 75 stitches using the provisional cast on. Over this provisional cast on, K70 then ERB. You're still on row 26 now but it has got longer.
  • Rows 27-53: As rows 1-26

Change yarn to colour C. This strip continues the hem shaping at a slightly slower rate.

  • Rows 1-54: Work as the previous strip, but reducing the increases to one at the hem end every six rows.

Change yarn to colour D.

  • Rows 1-54: Work as the previous strip but with no increases.

Change yarn to colour E.

  • Rows 1-54: Work as the previous strip but decrease one stitch at the hem end every six rows.

Change yarn to colour F.

  • Rows 1-25: Work as the previous strip, but quicken the decreases to one at the hem end every three rows (start of the row on K rows, end of the row on P rows).
  • Row 26: SRB; P2, K88; ERB. Slip the other 75 stitches onto a holder.
  • Rows 27-54: Continue working on the 100 live stitches only, as for rows 1-25.

Change yarn back to colour A.

  • Row 1: SRB, P to last 7 st, K2, ERB
  • Rows 1a, b: SRB, P2, K34, turn; P34, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 2: SRB, P2, K to last 5 st, ERB
  • Rows 2a, b: SRB, P36, turn; K36, ERB, turn
  • Row 3: as row 1
  • Rows 3a, b, c, d: SRB, P2, K32, turn; P32, K2, ERB, turn; SRB, P2, K30, turn; P30, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 4: as row 2
  • Rows 4a, b, c, d: SRB, P32, turn; K32, ERB, turn; SRB, P28, turn; K28, ERB, turn
  • Row 5: as row 1
  • Rows 5a, b: SRB, P2, K28, turn; P28, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 6: as row 2
  • Rows 6a, b: SRB, P24, turn; K24, ERB, turn
  • Row 7: as row 1
  • Rows 7a, b, c, d: SRB, P2, K26, turn; P26, K2, ERB, turn; SRB, K26, turn; P26, ERB, turn
  • Row 8: as row 2
  • Rows 8a, b, c, d: SRB, P20, turn; K20, ERB, turn; SRB, P16, turn; K16, ERB, turn
  • Row 9: as row 1
  • Rows 9a, b: SRB, P2, K22, turn; P22, K2, ERB, turn
  • Row 10: as row 2
  • Rows 10a, b: SRB, P12, turn K12, ERB, turn
  • Row 11: as row 1
  • Rows 11a, b, c, d: SRB, P2, K20, turn; P20, K2, ERB, turn; SRB, K20, turn, P20, ERB, turn
  • Row 12: as row 2
  • Rows 12a, b, c, d: SRB, P8, turn; K8, ERB, turn; SRB, P4, turn; K4, ERB, turn
  • Row 13: as row 1
  • Row 14: as row 2

This completes the Back. Either break yarn and slip the stitches onto a holder for later grafting or three-needle bindoff, or continue knitting the Front directly on to the edge of the back. The advantage of breaking the yarn and knitting the front separately is that you don't have to be hauling the whole thing around with you all the time.

Front

If you're not knitting on directly from the Back, cast on 90 stitches in colour A, with the provisional cast on.

Rows 1-14: Work as for the colour A stripe of the Back.

Change yarn to colour F.

  • Row 1: SRB, P to last 7 st, K2, ERB
  • Row 2: SRB, P2, K to last 5 st, ERB
  • Rows 3-26: Repeat the preceding two rows, increasing one stitch at the hem end every three rows (start of the row on K rows, end of the row on P rows) beginning the increases on row 3. Work the increases on the body side of the reverse stocking stitch strip.
  • Cast on 75 stitches using the provisional cast on. Over this provisional cast on, K70 then ERB. You're still on row 26 now but it has got longer.
  • Rows 27-34: As rows 1-8

See Also: Kake's Projects


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