London.crafts wiki - Differences between Version 8 and Version 7 of Kake's Rainbow Hemp Jumper
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* <b>Rows 1-27:</b> Work in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at the hem end every three rows (start of the row on K rows, end of the row on P rows). I'm making the increases four stitches in, so I can keep my nice chain selvedge, and I'm using [[invisible increases]]. * <b>Cast on</b> 75 stitches |
* <b>Rows 1-24:</b> Work in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at the hem end every three rows (start of the row on K rows, end of the row on P rows). I'm making the increases four stitches in, so I can keep my nice chain selvedge, and I'm using [[invisible increases]]. |
Yarn bought from The House of Hemp, at the 2003 Knitting and Stitching Show. Each skein is 100g and cost £7. It is 2-ply and quite thin. I will probably use needles somewhere around 3mm.
I am planning to knit this sideways in stocking stitch so I can have nice wide vertical stripes. I will have to do a bit of maths to make sure that the colour joins work smoothly:
- on each shoulder seam
- at the side seam where I start and finish knitting
- where I join the sleeves to the body (this is the least important one)
A V-neck would be nice but possibly impractical for sideways knitting.
Swatch
Knitted on 2mm needles. Before washing, 24 stitches and 48 rows per 10cm square. After machine-washing and drying flat, 32 stitches and 48 rows per 10cm square. I'm going to assume a gauge of 30 stitches and 48 rows, to allow for a little stretching with wear (remember that the rows are the horizontal direction and the stitches the vertical, since this is knitted sideways).
The pattern
Use 2mm needles. The yarn is 2-ply hemp yarn in 6 colours: A, B, C, D, E, F. Size: one size fits Kake.
Back
Use the long-tail cast-on for a stretchy edge. Throughout these directions, work a chain selvedge on both sides, and wrap the next stitch after a short row. The back is worked left to right.
Cast on 90 stitches in colour A. This strip uses short rows to form the waist shaping.
- Row 1: P to end
- Rows 1a, b, c, d: K4, turn, P4, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn
- Row 2: K to end
- Rows 2a, b, c, d: P20, turn, K20, turn, P22, turn, K22, turn
- Row 3: P to end
- Rows 3a, b: K12, turn, P12, turn
- Row 4: K to end
- Rows 4a, b: P24, turn, K24, turn
- Row 5: P to end
- Rows 5a, b, c, d: K16, turn, P16, turn, K20, turn, P20, turn
- Row 6: K to end
- Rows 6a, b, c, d: P26, turn, K26, turn, P28, turn, K28, turn
- Row 7: P to end
- Rows 7a, b: K24, turn, P24, turn
- Row 8: K to end
- Rows 8a, b: P30, turn, K30, turn
- Row 9: P to end
- Rows 9a, b, c, d: K28, turn, P28, turn, K32, turn, P32, turn
- Row 10: K to end
- Rows 10a, b, c, d: P32, turn, K32, turn, P34, turn, K34, turn
- Row 11: P to end
- Rows 11a, b: K36, turn, P36, turn
- Row 12: K to end
- Rows 12a, b: P36, turn, K36, turn
- Row 13: P to end
Change yarn to colour B. This strip takes care of the armhole shaping and also begins the hem shaping.
- Rows 1-24: Work in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at the hem end every three rows (start of the row on K rows, end of the row on P rows). I'm making the increases four stitches in, so I can keep my nice chain selvedge, and I'm using invisible increases.
See Also: Kake's Projects
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